Pigna is the village just behind Aregno, and our other immediate neighbour in the Most Beautiful Villages list. Orange-tiled roofs, blue shutters, no cars allowed inside the walls. You park at the entrance and wander in.

It’s known as a music village. Casa Musicale puts on concerts almost every evening in season, and you’ll find artisan workshops tucked between the houses — instrument makers, ceramic studios, small galleries. Easy to lose an afternoon here.

For drinks, A Moresca has one of the terraces with the view we keep coming back to. The valley drops away below you and the sun goes down behind the sea. Worth booking a table for that hour. A Cassarella next door better for dinner and same view and atmosphere! Make reservations and bring cash.